| If you
saw last Mays Parish Players production of "Oh
What a Lovely War", you may have become as fascinated by the plays subject
matter as the cast. Four of us were determined to try to touch something of the four years
in the early 20th century which reshaped the world order and unleashed an
unprecedented horror on millions of ordinary people. |
 |
So a glorious warm October Friday saw
Simon Cheetham (who directed the play), John Gout, Graham McCubbin and myself setting off
across the channel on the same journey as much of Britains youth took over 80 years
ago. - many innocently thrilled at the prospect of a new adventure. The destination? A
line down France and Belgium that became known as The Western Front.
Within an hours drive we were at
our first stopping point - the Indian Memorial at Neuve Chappelle. No graves, just a sight
we were to get un-nervingly used to - walls covered with row upon row of names. A memorial
to those who have no known resting place.
Later we visited Dud Corner, our first
sight of a British and Commonwealth cemetery. Perfect ranks of impeccably maintained white
gravestones, many with the names of those resting beneath but, distressingly, so many
others with the simple inscriptions "A Soldier of the Great War" and "Known
unto God". Then onto Vimy Ridge to view the magnificent Canadian memorial and the
beautifully kept park, and more graves.
An overnight stop in Arras was
followed by a pilgrimage to the grave of Roland Leighton, Vera Brittains fiancé, at
Louvencourt. Roland was aged just 19 when fatally wounded by a snipers bullet. Then
perhaps the most haunting experience of the weekend, back to Vimy but this time to the
German cemetery. The sheer vastness of the place was truly awful -over 40,000 men buried
in a place bereft of any sense of victory or glory, so unlike the Commonwealth cemeteries.
The sight appalled us - it simply said "death".
Next stop was Ypres, a remarkable
place utterly destroyed by 1918 and yet perfectly restored to its mediaeval glory. We
attended the simple and moving Menin Gate ceremony - in which the Ypres fire brigade daily
remember the 55,000 Commonwealth dead recorded on the enormous memorial Gate by playing
"The Last Post".
Sunday took us to Railway Wood, a
gentle but lonely place, which featured in the play and where a dozen British tunnellers
were buried alive, to the fascinating open-air museum with its preserved trenches, at
Hooge Crater and finally to another vast, gaunt German cemetery. And then home to England,
a simple, short journey for us, but which for nearly a million of our countrymen was a
journey too far in those dark years of the First World War.
"At the going down
of the sun, and in the morning - we will remember them."
Top |